Heatbed insulation

 

New day - new mod!

Otherwise life is boring :)

We warm the heatbed.

I foresee the question - why? Well firstly we will improve the thermal stability and - potentially - the adhesion of the first layer. This may be relevant if you are printing ABS or ASA plastics, or some other filaments that require an elevated printing temperature. Although I printed the eSUN ASA - and in general I did not notice any problems, except for the usual problems with adhesion (glue stick to help you).

And to be honest - because we f *** can.

So this is my second attempt at insulating a heatbed. The first failed because the standard spacers on which the heatbed is installed are too short (well, or the thickness of the thermal insulation is too thick, it all depends on the perspective). Here are the old and new spacers and screws. 

The stock length for bushings is 14mm or 9/16 inches of freedom, for screws - screws M5*22. New  bushings are 4.1x7x20mm and screws M5*30mm - alas, my American friends, the printer uses metric fasteners. Below you can find links for the materials I used. 

So, to install the heater, remove the upper magnetic buildplate and unscrew the 4 screws that secure the heatbed to the carriage.

We don't need old screws and bushings.

Turn the heatbed over with the magnetic layer down, put it on the opposite side (black and with the Anycubic inscription and a temperature sensor in the middle). 

Peel off the capton tape that fixes the white insulation of the temperature sensor right in the middle of the heatbed. 

Fix the insulation with tape, turn the heatbed over and mark the holes for the screws with a marker, and also outline the plastic bracket of the nozzle offset sensor.

Peel off the tape and remove the insulation. You haven't glued it on yet, have you?

Next, using a scalpel and straight arms, let's make holes in the insulation for new bushings  and a cutout for the nozzle offset sensor. Check the feet. 

Now, not so much the most difficult, but we will have to glue the insulation fairly evenly on the heatbed so that the holes for the spacers coincide with the holes in the heatbed. Here's how to stick a protective glass on the phone - start from one side and move forward smoothly.

An important detail. When you fasten back the buildplate don't forget to apply BLUE Locktite to the screws. Not red, not green. Blue! Otherwise, it will be very difficult to unscrew the screws later. And make sure that the cable to the buildplate does not twist. I didn't check and had to take it apart.

And what did we end up with.

- The table heats up noticeably faster and cools down much slower

- consumes much less power. For me, this is important, because it allows you to connect a camera heater to a standard 70V power supply and not overload it (the unit).

The links for the materials I used are below. All links are affiliate.

Bushings - 4.1x7x20mm

Insulation - 220x220x7mm

Screws -  M5*30mm